Woodwork Forums

a new home for inventors.

YCF Dino — Sun, 20 May 2012 01:46:38 GMT

Hi guys.
Someone posted a link for a dowel-system ( Jig) invented in AU.
I see many inventios and good ideas from AU and I want you to know that we just formed a new company with strong connections and funding.

The company is eurekazone IP LLC and is based in FL. USA.
Your ideas are welcomed and keep in mind that we don't ask for any money to "help" other inventors. What we like to see is problem solving solutions and good ideas to make woodworking safer and better.

My email is ezsmart@eurekazone.com
Or ezsmart@gmail.com

thanks.
ycf dino

Blackapple Toolworks?

Acolyte — Sun, 20 May 2012 00:24:46 GMT

Hi,

Does anyone know if Blackapple Toolworks are still going? trying to find a replacement toe and knob for a family heirloom No.3 which has the horrid black plastic handles, thought their new totes/knobs looked nice but can't seem to find them online.

cheers

Acolyte

Nearly finished my new rip fence clone

garfield — Sun, 20 May 2012 00:01:35 GMT

Hi All,

I have been building a biesemeyer fence clone and it's nearly finished. I only have a Makita MLT100 so I've also extended the surface of the table all tied into the new fence.

Thought I'd show some progress pics and ask a question at the same time. My next step is to do my pointer, so I'm wondering how I'd set that part up. Would I place the fence hard up against the saw blade and then make the pointer mark show on zero? I'm a little stuck with how to set that up.

Appreciate the help
Geoff

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Reading and believing.

jimbur — Sat, 19 May 2012 23:15:34 GMT

Just been looking at the editorial by Robert B Lang in Popular Woodworking (thanks BD). Quoting in part:

"Somewhere along the line, dovetails changed from being a functional joint to a decorative one, from something generally hidden to something shown off as the main indicator of the builder�s skills. It isn�t that the old guys didn�t have the ability to cut perfect dovetails � in their world it wasn�t worth the time expended to make pretty joints that didn�t show."

I'm sure this article will raise a few eyebrows from 'purists'. Makes a good read anyway.
Cheers,
Jim

TRUCK DECKING reco

ang22221 — Sat, 19 May 2012 22:42:46 GMT

Hi its ANG from Melbourne. I have a Dodge tray truck ex telecom that currently has 4 x 1 inch tongue and groove 35 year old hardwood flooring that is disintegrating on me.
The support beams under it are 12 inches apart and are all good. (They run from the front to the rear of tray). The flooring is 2 meters long running from left to right side of tray. Would H3 PLINTH pine board 6 x 1 inch sold at Bunnings be a suitable replacement?
Vehice is not kept under cover. Thanks Cheers ANG.

Stick Bowl

brendan stemp — Sat, 19 May 2012 22:33:16 GMT

Well I'm connected to the internet again. Yee Hah!!

To celebrate I thought I might share with you my latest piece. Timber is Blackwood and the middle section is a mixture of sticks, gum nuts and leaves cast in epoxy resin. Approx 250 diam.

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FREE (VIC) dc amplifier

azzrock — Sat, 19 May 2012 14:31:39 GMT

Houston instrument .
input 0 to 10mv output 0 to1 ma.
with gain control.
im going to throw it out i live in laverton vic.
aaron

Figured gutta percha pen blanks

Bupton — Sat, 19 May 2012 13:33:54 GMT

Hi,
Have some figure gutta percha pen blanks for sale in the marketplace if you are interested. The same timber as used in the pen below.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f222/f...blanks-152847/

Thanks Ben

Note Mods can lock this thread

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hare and forbes horizontal bandsaw.

danielhobby — Sat, 19 May 2012 13:33:45 GMT

Hi all,im looking at purchaseing a low end bandsaw for work.It wont get a lot of use so im looking at a taiwanese machine from hare and forbes.its a bs 10ls and im wondering if any members can comment on this particular unit.thanks in advance.cheers ,danny

Man Cave Organizing

pjt — Sat, 19 May 2012 12:54:35 GMT

The ongoing quest for the organized man cave, :wink:, basically the purpose was to use up four draws I picked up from an auction some time back, just had to take the paint off :( I ended up with two sets of draws within a frame that then slot into the existing shelving, :cool: I then made up a pair of narrow draws to take up the remaining height and to store all those small bits in....

The parts for frames ready to glue and an existing draw, joins are basic half laps and through dado, and a completed frame
Attachment 208982 Attachment 208983 Attachment 208981

It was a fluke that the draws were of a size that once in the made up frame would then fit into my existing shelving system, works quite well, I made up some dividers from some left over 3mm thick ply for the narrow draws
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Pete

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Laying out glass cloth.

Flatdog — Sat, 19 May 2012 12:53:32 GMT

I'm in the process of glassing the outside of the hull and I've layed the mat over the hull and smoothed it out working from the middle to the stems. Can anyone tell me, is there a special way of cutting or folding the cloth at the stems ? I saw a you tube video of a kayak being glassed but the cloth just layed neatly on the hull.

Thanks for any advice.

Kev.

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FOR SALE:VIC Figured gutta percha pen blanks

Bupton — Sat, 19 May 2012 11:19:52 GMT

Hi,
I have 5 lots of figured gutta percha, all lots are not including postage

Lot 1 $20 Premium Figure

Lot 2 $10

Lot 3 $10

Lot 4 $10

Lot 5 $10

Postage is $8 for up to 500grams and $12 for up to 3kg

Send me a PM if you are interested
Thanks Ben

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Looking for old bones

springwater — Sat, 19 May 2012 11:10:07 GMT

:-Ok a bit of a long shot but...bit strange I know but don't worry it's all right. Does anyone know where I could get old, lying in the paddock type, bleached grey/white sheep or cow rib bones from. I'm willing to travel a reasonable distance in Victoria.

Wanted (Vic) Chain Morticer for slotting posts for rails

tassietimbers — Sat, 19 May 2012 11:06:10 GMT

Hi all

Looking for a second hand heavy duty chain morticer, maybe like the Makita 7401L model. I would like to cut slots in 200 x 100 red gum posts to fit 200 x 50 rails to build post and rail fencing. Needs to be single phase. Can be portable or floor mounted in a shed. Any model, brand and age considered as long as it will do the job required.

Cheers and thanks.

James

Who's interested in meeting up for a BBQ?

simonl — Sat, 19 May 2012 10:50:34 GMT

Anyone interested in attending a BBQ if I organise one? I can be a family event if members would be keen to do that.

Time/Date and place TBA depending on who's interested in where they all live. I'd be willing to travel to Central VIC if it came to that.

My apologies to interstate people. You would no doubt be more than welcome to attend any proposed BBQ but understand that you most likely won't.

Any ideas, float them here. No doubt some (maybe all) of you already meet socially on a regular basis but I'm keen to get together again if anyone else is.

Cheers,

Simon

FOR SALE:WA Stanley #3 x2

pmcgee — Sat, 19 May 2012 10:47:40 GMT

Two Stanley #3 planes ... definitely post-WW2 but I'm not sure exactly how modern.

Almost identical. Both ...

Made in England.
Plastic handle and knob.
Near full "Stanley Made in Australia" blades.
Sharpened to my working standard only ... no guru here :)
Bases flat to a good working standard ... more time could be spent on them if you want perfection.

The left plane in all pictures - call it "Plane A" - is a little older. It has a frog adjustment screw, and the lever arm is made of two pieces of metal, with "STANLEY" stamped into it. Brass screw to knob and tote.

"Plane B" (on the right) has no frog adjusting screw, and the lever arm is stamped from one piece of metal. The knob and tote screws are a dark colour - steel I guess.

$45 each (+postage).

Cheers,
Paul McGee

... Will be listing a Record #7 also as soon as I get organised.

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Storing MM and CA

Tiger — Sat, 19 May 2012 10:39:02 GMT

At the moment I store my Micro Mesh in a tub of water so that it's constantly wet and ready to use, not sure if this will affect its longevity. I store all the CAs in another plastic tub (only worry here is that sometimes the bottles don't stay upright) and the accelerator is kept separate. Appreciate any comments on whether this is the best set-up for these.

Help a new guy out?

Cinereous — Sat, 19 May 2012 10:33:25 GMT

Beyond hitting things with a hammer, I have no experience in metalwork.

I'm wanting to cut heavy duty steel (~2mm thick) to achieve a similar pattern to this:

Your thoughts on what tools and techniques to use are appreciated.

Griffin custom

pindimar — Sat, 19 May 2012 10:11:27 GMT

Just saw this boat for sale on boat sales and this little boat seems interesting. The advertisement states that it was designed by Alan Payne and that it is registered with the historic ships register at the ANMM.

Used 1951 GRIFFIN CUSTOM Boat For Sale - boatsales.com.au

Greg F

Wood ID please

ole1 — Sat, 19 May 2012 09:43:44 GMT

Hi all,

I found this board at the Brisbane woodworking expo, found it quite striking. It's well on its way to becoming a coffee table, but I have no idea what it is, nor did the bloke who sold it to me.

Anyone able to help a noob?

Thank you.

s

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Diamond design tissue box

jow104 — Sat, 19 May 2012 09:15:40 GMT

As per advice by forum members I have drawn up a full size template for this design.

Purple heart and Maple to be used around 10mm thick. And I will attempt to sink the top surface of tissue box into carcass to maintain pattern integrity.

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Wanted (Vic) 235mm+ circular saw

pwatt01 — Sat, 19 May 2012 07:08:28 GMT

Gday all,
Just looking to see if anyone has an old 9 1/4 inch circular saw for me to mount on my triton workbench. I was hoping to get one for less than $100, if at all possible.

THanks

Nice Lady, even nicer surprise

The Bleeder — Sat, 19 May 2012 06:10:31 GMT

Next door neighbour knocked ob the door this morning and handed me this.

The story as it goes...

He knows I'm into woodwork and asked if I vould help and elderly lady that has a jamming door. He has known her ever since he and his wife moved here (30+ years).

Got off early on friday so down I go to look at this door. Only had to plane a bit of the hinge side, recut the hinges, give it a lick of paint and re-hang the door. Couple of hours tops. The eldely lady then pointed at the back door and said it's also jammed and could I have a look (she had been unable to open it for the last 5-6 years).

Managed to get the door opened and basically rebuilt the door frame, planed down the door and put it back. 5 hours later.

This is was she gave to me. It was her late husbands (10 years ago) and she basically has no one left.

Just rubbed the surface rust off (not that there was much) and gave it a wipe over.

Did a bit of work on the blade and gave it a sharpen.

Not in my wildest dreams did I think any one would give me a gift like that.

So here it is, a Stanley Bailey No 5. Made in England

Lovely lady...got plenty of coffee and real (home made) scones. I was in heaven (I love scones).

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Need ideas on sloting blade arbour.

Retromilling — Sat, 19 May 2012 05:58:30 GMT

I am making an arbour to mount a thin slotting blade.
What kind , brand / type of slotting blades are good ?
Looking at 75 to 100 mm blade . Need to buy some blades to go further .
Has anyone got any ideas on the way I should make the blade lock up end of the arbour . The machine end is done and it's locked into the spindle of the lathe ready to turn , just not sure about what type of thread or size and what design for the nut and shoulder to mount the blade ?
Any ideas appreciated and some photos of what you have done would be good.

Ron Hock plane blades - am I hallucinating?

veloaficionado — Sat, 19 May 2012 05:54:44 GMT

Hi all,

When I decided to renovate my old #4, #5 1/2 and #7 Stanley planes (just bread-and-butter ones, not Bedrock antiquaria, from the 1950s or 60s), the discussion amongst the local whittlers led towards Ron Hock blades. So, after getting the plane bodies resurfaced at a machine shop (a couple of thou off here and there), the insides sandblasted and repainted, and the handles rubbed back and oiled, the frogs spruced up, I had a look at his website, which seemed pretty kosher, so I put in an order for a 2" A2 blade and back-iron for the #4. Fitted well, cuts a whole lot better than the old blade/backiron combo (which were a bit warped and annealed, I think). Plenty of room for movement in the mouth from coarse shavings to fine. A really good upgrade.

I sent a thankyou email about 2 weeks ago but no reply. Oh well. He's a busy man.

Impressed, I thought the other two old girls deserved a treat as well, so asked for a couple of 2 3/8" blades (one in A2 and one in O1) and backirons.

The package turned up, but only one backiron with the two blades. Oh. An email was dispatched with a query. No reply so far after a week.

I attempted to fit one of the two new blades and the only :grumble: backiron to the #5 1/2. Despite assertions by Mr. Hock on the blade wrapper and on the website that all you have to do is pull the frog back a bit to make the thicker blade (2.4mm vs. the old 2.1mm - I can't be bothered with Imperial for things that thin) fit and protrude correctly, it either produced virtually no mouth/blade clearance (shavings jammed with anything but the finest of cuts) with the frog screws halfway along the frog screw slots, or with the frog screws right on the front of the slots (i.e. frog all the way back) still very little clearance and the thumbwheel almost off the end of its spindle. Not ideal.

So, what's the fix? Has anyone else had this happen to them with thicker-than-standard blades in older planes?

I am tempted to file the plane mouths out (from the current 4.7mm to ~6mm) to get some decent clearance, (a L-N #4 1/2 with a 50� frog I compared the setup with: a 3.3mm blade and 5.8mm mouth, seems to allow proper clearance, from fine to coarse) or should I just send the blades and backiron back for a refund? Stick to crap mass-produced blades and flimsy backirons?

You'd reckon he would have checked this out before making the blades thicker, and at least offered some advice.

I'm a bit disgruntled, especially since he doesn't seem to like answering emails from the Antipodes. I might wait until international calls are cheap and give him a ring.

Mark

FOR SALE:VIC Woodcarving projects

marcopolo — Sat, 19 May 2012 05:36:35 GMT

Clearing my shed revealed three woodcarving projects that were planned but never got there! Three different styles of mirror frames in red cedar.Ideal for a woodcarving enthusiast to really demonstrate their skill. Pickup only from my workshop in Camberwell. PM is the best contact. Each frames has been profiled and is supplied with a masonite backing board to hold it together. Available as a single unit $30 each or three for $80. Some illustrated Classic designs available.

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Table Bowed on new H&F BP-305 [among other things]

Hermit — Sat, 19 May 2012 04:59:07 GMT

My new BP-305 12" bandsaw (and a Scheppach OSS) arrived from H&F yesterday.

I was a bit disappointed that the (bandsaw) manual was for an earlier model and didn't relate 100% to mine and a bit more disappointed at the almost total lack of setup information, but finally got there, thanks to online vids.

It's not as nicely made/assembled as I'd hoped, the lower blade guide bracket was twisted about 10 degrees to the side, so the guides and their backing plate had to be removed to adjust and tighten the support plate, then re-assembled and adjusted, the bottom wheel drive belt screeches and tries to climb onto the larger pulley as soon as it's tensioned. No form of adjustment here - it's housed, I might have to get used to that bit. I'll re-visit it. Edit: The tensioner causes it, it pulls on a bad angle. That's what's housed.
A number of spring washers, (for mounting the table), were missing, and during assembly, also, they'd forgotten to tighten a couple of bolts at all.
That small metal bracket that you can see just below the table was bent way over to one side, touching the blade, when the saw arrived, too.

Now, having got everything else right, set the blade exactly at 90 degrees to the table, tension, tracking, guides, thrust rollers, etc, etc, my trial cuts weren't square. Rechecked the blade for square, (on the LHS of the blade), it was good, then on impulse checked the vertical angle between blade and the outer side of the table - out by a degree or two. The table is bowed through the middle, especially on the leading, (blade entry), side. :~
It's not as bad on the trailing side of the blade.

I'm wondering if anyone has any idea what it might cost to get it milled flat? I'm in Nowra, H&F are in Sydney. Is it likely to be cheaper than posting it back to H&F, probably at my own expense?

In the pic, the straight edge is in contact with the table on the far RHS, then dips slightly before rising to the middle, then drops away to the left. It's all over the place.

I guess I should also ask, first, is this table acceptable? Really coarse finish, too, I'll have to smooth it heaps. It grabs the wood.
Are those other problems usual too, or did they just see me coming?

Thanks in advance for any replies. I want to decide what I'm doing before Monday morning.

Edit: Camera distortion doesn't help, but I'm sure you can see the light. :D

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Making a Router Sled

Pauls321 — Sat, 19 May 2012 04:38:29 GMT

Hi all, I imagine this topic has been discussed quite a bit as I've looked through various posts on this subject. Just trying to get my brain around what I want to do.

I want to dress timber mainly used for small box making. I can rip the timber firstly on my triton workcentre but as most realise the result is fair but not brilliant. It has helped since I mounted a stabilising bracket to my triton. The timber is then around 12 or 13mm thickness, and maybe 60 or 70 or 80mm wide.

I would like a thicknesser but I dont want to buy one. I don't really want to outlay the money for one, plus it would just take up more room in my very limited shed, and lastly I know the noise they make and I dont want my neighbours complaining. I guess I could also add that I would never need to dress timber up to 13 inches wide and around 6 inches thick.

Nevertheless I have been looking at these router sleds. These are the two sites that have caught my attention. The first is youtube that goes for a bit over 2 minutes if you care to take the time. The second are for plans for more of a sled type setup.

How to Plane a Board with a Router.mov - YouTube

Router Planer Jig

Does anyone have any feedback or perhaps built a similar type sled. And lastly which bit would you use for such. Opinions seem to be divided between a "dish bit" and a "planer bit", or a "mortise and planer bit".

Regards, Paul

Sterling Drill Press

bwal74 — Sat, 19 May 2012 03:15:38 GMT

Hi All,

Picked up a Sterling Drill Press today. Purchased off ebay for $130.00. Its in very good condition, does have some surface rust but not to bad. Bearings all good. Table has some minor marks but still good. Cast iron construction, 6 speed and made in Australia.

I don't know much about these drills, if anyone has any info would be appreciated.

Ben

ps Very heavy and bigger than I thought.

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Repco tool & cutter grinder

Pete012 — Sat, 19 May 2012 02:29:38 GMT

Hi All, does anyone know where I could find some information on an old Repco tool and cutter grinder I have just purchased? I have tried google & wiki but no luck.